Here's everything you need to know about riding the Kandy to Ella train, including how to book tickets, what class to choose, and what to expect on the journey.
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Key Tips For Riding the Kandy to Ella Train
- Book second-class reserved tickets as early as possible: Tickets sell out weeks in advance, especially during peak travel season (December to March, July to August).
- Arrive at the station 30 minutes early: Even with reserved tickets, you'll need to find your carriage and seat. Stations are chaotic, so give yourself time.
- Sit on the right side of the train: The best views are on the right side as you travel from Kandy to Ella. Try to book a seat on that side when reserving tickets.
- Bring water and snacks: The train has vendors, but it's smart to bring your own supplies.
- Charge your phone: You'll want battery life for photos. Bring a portable charger.
- Be careful at the open doors: Check your clearance before leaning out. Watch for walls, poles, and trees.
- Pack light: Storage space is limited. Bring a day pack or small bag that fits under your seat or on your lap.
- Dress in layers: The train can be hot and stuffy or cool and breezy depending on altitude and airflow.
- Respect locals: This is daily transportation for many Sri Lankans. Don't block aisles, be mindful of space, and let locals access seats and doors.
Why the Kandy to Ella Train is Worth It
The Kandy to Ella train route is famous for a reason. It passes through some of Sri Lanka's most beautiful landscapes: rolling tea plantations, waterfalls, mountain villages, and valleys that disappear into mist. The scenery is constantly changing, and the train moves slowly enough that you can actually take it in.
The train itself is part of the experience. It's old, British-era rolling stock with open doors, wooden benches, and ceiling fans that barely move the humid air. Locals use it as daily transportation, so you'll share the train with commuters, vendors selling snacks, and families travelling between towns.
The open doors are what make this train ride unique. You can sit or stand by the doorway, lean out (carefully), and watch the landscape rush by. The wind hits your face, the tea plantations blur into green streaks, and when the train curves around a hillside, you can see the entire length of carriages snaking through the mountains. It's photogenic, exhilarating, and slightly terrifying if you think too hard about the lack of safety features.
But here's the reality: the train is slow, crowded, and uncomfortable if you're in the wrong class.
Which Class To Ride In
Short answer: Book reserved seats in second class. The third class is crowded, and the first class has AC, which means no open windows or doors to take photos from.
Third Class
Third class has no AC or assigned seats and can be packed to the point where you're standing in the aisle for hours. Also, the local workers use this as a commuter train, and if it's already packed, the last thing they need is a bunch of tourists taking up more space on their car.
This is the cheapest option, but I don't recommend it. It's uncomfortable, you're getting in the locals' way, and the price difference really doesn't matter for most tourists.
Second Class (Recommended)
Second class still has no AC but does have reserved seats. This is the best option in my opinion because the cars are less crowded, you get a designated seat, but you still have open windows and doors. This is crucial for photos. Shooting through the glass windows just isn't the same, and you don't want to be counting on the windows being squeaky clean.
First Class
First class is the only option with AC. But because of this 'upgrade' the doors and windows all stay shut the whole ride. If you're sensitive to the heat and not worried about photos, this is a good option. You can still take in the views through the windows, but it won't be quite as visceral.
How to Book Kandy to Ella Train Tickets
You've got two options: unreserved or reserved seating.
Option 1: Unreserved Tickets (Not Recommended)
Unreserved tickets are purchased day-of at the train station. They can't sell out because there's no cap on the number of tickets sold, but they also don't guarantee you a seat. On popular routes like Kandy to Ella, unreserved carriages are packed with standing room only, bodies pressed against bodies, luggage blocking the aisles.
If you want unreserved tickets, show up at least 2 hours before departure to queue at the ticket office.
Best for: Spontaneous travellers who don't mind standing for 6 hours or gambling on finding a seat.
Our take: Don't do this. The money you save isn't worth the discomfort.
Option 2: Reserved Tickets (Highly Recommended)
Reserved tickets must be booked in advance. You can't buy them on your travel day. You can book up to 32 days ahead through 12Go Asia or the official Sri Lanka Railways website (though the official site is often unreliable).
Reserved seats guarantee you a specific seat in a specific carriage. You board, find your seat, and you're set for the entire journey. You can get reserved tickets for first or second class. First class has AC, which is nice, but that means the windows and doors stay shut the whole ride. If you care about the photos and the full immersive experience, go for second class.
Our take: This is the best move. Book second class reserved as early as possible.
Ticket Prices (Kandy to Ella)
- Third class unreserved: LKR 300 (~$1 USD)
- Second class reserved: LKR 600 (~$2 USD)
- First class reserved: LKR 2,500–3,000 (~$8–10 USD if booked in advance)
We booked reserved second-class tickets online in advance, and we recommend you do the same. The third-class cars are hot, crowded, and uncomfortable for a 6 to 7-hour ride. Plus, you're adding to the crowding in spaces that locals rely on for actual daily transit.
Join the other tourists in second class, book well in advance, and enjoy the ride without spending 6 hours standing in an aisle or fighting for a seat.
The Tuktuk Solution (If You're Driving a Tuktuk)
If you're driving a tuktuk around Sri Lanka (which you should), you don't have to miss the train. Tuktuk rental companies offer a service where a driver will take your tuktuk from Kandy to Ella while you ride the train. You hand over your keys in the morning, enjoy the train, and when you arrive in Ella, your tuktuk is waiting at your guesthouse.
We did this, and it was a great break from driving. After days of navigating Sri Lanka's chaotic roads, sitting on a train and watching the scenery pass was a relief. The driver met us in Ella with the tuktuk parked and ready to go.
If you're renting a tuktuk, ask your rental company about this service. It's 100% worth it.
What to Expect on the Train
The Journey
The train departs Kandy in the morning (check your ticket for the exact time) and arrives in Ella 6 to 7 hours later. The first hour out of Kandy passes through tropical forests and small villages. The scenery is nice but not spectacular.
Around 2 hours into the journey, the train climbs into the hill country, and the landscape transforms. Tea plantations cover the hillsides in neat rows, waterfalls tumble down cliffs, and the valleys open up into panoramic views. This is the section everyone talks about and is the reason this train ride is famous.
The train moves slowly, rarely exceeding 40 km/h. It stops frequently at small stations where vendors board to sell snacks, tea, and fruit. Locals get on and off, and the carriage empties and fills as the train moves through the highlands.
The Open Doors
The doors stay open the entire ride. You can stand or sit in the doorway, lean out, and watch the scenery rush by. It's exhilarating and photogenic, but it's also genuinely dangerous if you're not careful.
The train passes close to walls, bushes, trees, and poles. If you're leaning out for a photo, check your clearance and be quick. People have been injured (and killed) leaning out too far or not paying attention.
Food and Drinks
Vendors sell snacks, tea, fruit, and samosas on the train. You can also bring your own food and drinks. There's no dining car, so pack snacks if you get hungry between vendor stops. The vendors don't work for the train operator. They just hop on at stops and pass through the cars offering snacks and drinks.
Bathrooms are available on the train, but are basic squat toilets, so bring toilet paper and hand sanitizer.
What to Do in Ella
Ella is a small mountain town surrounded by tea plantations, waterfalls, and hiking trails. Most travellers spend 2–3 days here exploring the area.
- Little Adam's Peak: Easy hike with panoramic views (1 to 2 hours)
- Ella Rock: More challenging hike with stunning views (3 to 4 hours)
- Nine Arch Bridge: Iconic stone railway bridge surrounded by jungle
- Ravana Falls: Waterfall near Ella (can be crowded)
- Tea plantation tours: Learn how tea is grown and processed
- Cafes and restaurants: Ella has a relaxed backpacker vibe with good food and coffee
When to Take the Kandy to Ella Train
Best months: December to March (dry season, clear views)
Avoid: May and October (monsoon season, rain and mist block views)
Shoulder season: April, June, September (fewer tourists, decent weather)
The train runs year-round, but the experience is significantly better when the weather is clear. Mist and rain obscure the tea plantations and mountain views, which defeats the purpose of the ride.
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