Is It Kochi Or Cochin?
It's both! A lot of places in India have multiple names for the same place. Most of India has been home to thousands of years of continuous civilizations and has been the victim of several successive invasions. This leads to a cultural complexity that is part of the subcontinent's beauty, but also leads to some language confusion.
How Long To Stay
Recommended time: 2-3 days
Kochi is a massive city, but most visitors stick to the area called Fort Kochi, which is the walkable old town area. We spent a few days exploring the old town, taking photos, popping into some of the clothing stores, and generally soaking up the colonial architecture mixed with local life.
Shopping in Fort Kochi
The clothes in Fort Kochi are beautiful, handmade, block-printed pieces that are legitimately gorgeous. But the shopping felt high-pressure, and we felt watched the whole time.
As soon as you enter a shop, the staff will be right with you, asking what you're looking for and trying to grab things off the shelf for you to try on. We assume they're trying to be nice, but the things they were pulling down weren't really what we were asking for. We're definitely more the "browse around" type of shoppers, but they wouldn't really let you do that.
The prices were also high for India. Not expensive by Western standards, but definitely more than you'd pay elsewhere in the country.
If you have a solid shopping budget, this is the perfect place to start your trip and to get fully kitted out before heading north. But just be warned that it will be a bit of a high-pressure sales environment, and you will definitely be paying well above local prices.
The Tuk-Tuk Tour Trap
The tuk-tuk drivers will all try to sell you on their tours. If you like the sound of it, go for it, but we don't recommend it.
Everywhere they take you is really easy to get to on foot, and there's no need to drive around. Also, they price the tours dirt cheap and make their money from pressuring for tips at the end and taking you to shops that will pressure you hard to buy from them. The driver gets a commission from these shops, which is why they're so insistent that you go in at the end of your tour.
If it's really hot, or you just don't feel like walking, it is a solid option to see all of the sights clearly. And honestly, if you pay for the tour, leave a big tip, and buy a few things from the shops, it won't be too expensive, but it is a bit off-putting that they aren't up-front about the true cost of the tour.
But this is a taste of things to come. We found throughout the country that whenever the price seems too good to be true…. It is. The funny thing is that the final price is never that bad, and if they just led with that, it would be fine. It just feels weird to be slowly squeezed for money throughout your whole interaction.
The Chinese Fishing Nets
The iconic sight in Fort Kochi is the Chinese fishing nets. This is a great sunset spot, and they are truly beautiful considering they are actual fishing nets.
You can take a look from a distance with no hassle, but if you go down to get a closer look, expect to be asked for a tip. You can walk right onto them and watch them raise and lower them. They do this about every 5 minutes, so there's never anything caught there. (It's just a show for the tourists.)
As you leave, one of the fishermen will ask you for a tip. If you give him something too small, he might make a cheeky comment, but it's really a pay-what-you-want situation. We didn't see anyone pay anything, but you probably would only get a cheeky comment if you left without a tip.
Again, this is another soft-landing learning opportunity. Carry lots of small bills and be ready to hand out a lot of tips. Never feel pressured into giving a lot, but handing out the equivalent of 50 cents here and there will just be a great social lubricant for your trip, and you will have a much better time without really spending that much more.
Getting Around Kochi
Uber is available and affordable in Kochi. We flew in and took a nearly 2-hour Uber ride from the airport to Fort Kochi for less than $15 USD. On the way out, we Ubered 30 minutes to the bus station for around $5 USD (an Uber to the train would be similar).
We recommend using Uber to avoid being overcharged or having to negotiate. Even our Uber driver to the bus tried to get us to pay cash even though we had already paid through the app.
What Else to Do In Kochi
The single best thing you can do in Fort Kochi costs nothing. Just walk around (preferably with a camera). The old town is genuinely one of the most photogenic places in India, and you could spend hours just wandering the streets with a camera.
The architecture is a layered mix of Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonial buildings, many of which are crumbling in the most beautiful way. What makes it especially striking is the trees. Massive, ancient Banyan and rain trees have grown right into and around the buildings over hundreds of years, their roots weaving through walls and their canopies swallowing whole facades.
Vasco da Gama Square is a particularly great spot for this. The rain trees there are enormous, and the whole area feels like something out of a storybook. Princess Street is another great photo walk, lined with old colonial shopfronts and a steady stream of local life. Early morning is the best time to get out: the light is golden, it's cooler, and the streets haven't filled up with tourists yet.
Beyond the photo walks, there's actually a solid amount to keep you busy. The Mattancherry Palace (also called the Dutch Palace) is worth a visit. It's a short Uber ride away and has impressive Kerala murals inside that most people walk right past.
Nearby is Jew Town and the Paradesi Synagogue, one of the oldest active synagogues in the Commonwealth, which is a fascinating detour into a surprising chapter of Kochi's history. The street outside is lined with antique shops and spice vendors, and is a nicer, slightly less pressured shopping experience than Fort Kochi proper. If you're into street art, keep an eye out for work by GuessWho, a famous anonymous Kerala street artist who has been compared to Banksy and whose pieces are scattered around the neighbourhood.
For evenings, David Hall is a great spot that hosts regular open mic nights with local musicians and poets. And if you can time your trip between December and April, the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is one of Asia's biggest international contemporary art festivals and transforms the whole area into an open-air gallery.
Finally, grab a coconut from one of the street stalls whenever you need a break from the heat. They're everywhere, they're cheap, and they might be the best thing you eat all day.
Where To Eat In Fort Kochi
There are so many great restaurants across the old town, so your best bet is to ask around at your hotel or guest house for recommendations. A lot of the restaurants are pretty similar and offer traditional South Indian cuisine.
Our favourite breakfast spot was Kashi Art Cafe. This again is more western style food, which we found was good for breakfast. We love Indian food, but found 3 square meals a day a bit repetitive. So we usually did a western breakfast and tried more local spots for lunch and dinner.
Our most local food stop was Sri Krishna Cafe. This is a real local hole-in-the-wall spot where you can get some spot-on dosa. It's the perfect lunch stop, and it's right on the way to Mattancherry Palace and Jew Town.
Our favourite western style spot was Loving Earth Cafe. It has a beautiful garden seating area and an extensive western-style vegan menu. It's the best place to pop in for a cold drink and a quick reprieve from some of the culture shock you may be feeling after your first day.
Where to Stay In Fort Kochi
Fort Kochi has a really lovely selection of guesthouses and boutique hotels, many of which are set inside restored colonial buildings that are worth staying in for the architecture alone. It's a place where the accommodation is genuinely part of the experience rather than just somewhere to sleep. That said, it's a popular destination and the good spots fill up fast, so booking ahead is strongly recommended, especially if you're travelling between December and March, which is peak season.
The old town is small and walkable, so location matters less here than it might elsewhere. Pretty much anywhere within Fort Kochi proper will put you within easy walking distance of the fishing nets, the main streets, and most of the restaurants. If you have the budget, splurging a little on somewhere with a nice courtyard or rooftop is well worth it. After a day of navigating pushy shopkeepers and the midday heat, having a beautiful place to come back to makes a real difference.
Forte Kochi
A luxurious heritage hotel on Princess Street, Forte Kochi offers 5-star stays in a beautifully restored colonial building. The standout feature is the ancient Mikwah: a natural spring in the central courtyard. Expect an outdoor pool, free WiFi, and an impressive menu spanning Kerala, pan-Indian, and European cuisines. Couples rate the location 9.7/10.Check Availability
The Barracks, Cochin
A modern, well-equipped apartment just 300 metres from the Kochi Biennale and a 12-minute walk from Fort Kochi Beach. The Barracks Cochin keeps things simple and comfortable, with free WiFi, air-conditioning, kitchenette, and a complimentary Asian breakfast served in-room. A great mid-range option in a hard-to-beat location. Couples rate it 9.5/10.Check AvailabilityFinal Thoughts
Fort Kochi is a genuinely special place, and we'd recommend it to pretty much anyone doing a trip through Kerala. The architecture, the trees, and the fishing nets at sunset are stunning. It has a lot going for it aesthetically, and two to three days there never really feels like too long. It's also just a great place to land if you're new to India. The tourist infrastructure is solid, Uber works well, and the English is good. You'll encounter your first round of soft pressure tactics here, but nothing that should rattle you. Think of it as a training ground for the rest of the country.
Just go in with the right expectations. It's not a hidden gem, and it's not trying to be. It's a well-trodden stop on a well-worn tourist trail, and the locals know it. The shopping will be pushy, the tuk-tuk drivers will pitch you their tours, and the fishermen will be watching as you walk away from the nets. None of it is a big deal once you know it's coming. Carry small bills, be polite but firm, and don't feel guilty about saying no. Do that, and you'll be too busy enjoying yourself to care about the rest.
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